2014 Alaska Vacation: Last Day

One of many stuffed animals at the visitor's center
One of many stuffed animals at the visitor's center

Our last morning, we finished packing all our gear to get ready to turn in the RV.  Then we drove back into downtown Anchorage to see the Park Service visitor center.  There were some nice displays and a couple of really nice movies, including this one on the Northern Light: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mdy8jjc9-TM

The Reindeer Sausage Nazi
The Reindeer Sausage Nazi

On the way out we stopped at this cart to get a reindeer sausage.  The sausage was terrific, but the guy was a little brusque, including a sign saying, “Get off your cell phone and complete your private conversations before stepping up to order.”  Reindeer sausage was terrific!

Our last lunch in the RV -- cleaning up all the leftovers
Our last lunch in the RV -- cleaning up all the leftovers

We then drove near the RV rental outfit and stopped to fill up the gas tank and the propane tank.  We then ate most of the leftovers we had left in the refrigerator — our last vacation meal.

Panorama from one of our rest stops
Panorama from one of our rest stops

As a sort of recap, here are a couple of neat pictures that didn’t make it into previous posts.  You may need to open the panoramic pictures in another view to see them fully.

Panorama on the Ruth Glacier
Panorama on the Ruth Glacier

In this picture Tom moved part way through the picture so that he could be in it twice!

The stone man across the street from The Sourdough Mining Company
The stone man across the street from The Sourdough Mining Company

This is a replica of a navigational aid that Alaska natives would build along the trackless tundra to help guide themselves to good hunting grounds, home, etc.  This one was set up across from the restaurant at which we had our last dinner in Alaska.

Flying home, looking down at glaciers and mountains
Flying home, looking down at glaciers and mountains

Farewell Alaska…

2014 Alaska Vacation: Days 10 and 11

A view of Seward harbor
A view of Seward harbor

We had a third beautiful weather day.  We drove to Seward and couldn’t believe our weather luck!  The sky was mostly clear, the weather was warm, and there was a nice breeze.  We began by walking around some of the souvenir shops in “downtown” Seward.

Looking up over some of the buildings on "main street" Seward
Looking up over some of the buildings on "main street" Seward

Seward is the southern terminus of the Alaska railroad and a port of debarkation for coal from the interior of Alaska heading to Asia.  It is also a port for cruise ships.  The winter population is about 5000 people.  There were a number nice little stores and cafes in town.

Another view of "main street" Seward
Another view of "main street" Seward

After walking around the town, we made sandwiches in the RV and drove to Exit Glacier.  The Harding Ice Field is a huge glacier (sort of a lake of ice in the middle of the Chugach mountains) that feeds several glaciers.  One of the first expeditions to try cross the ice field exited at this glacier, hence the name.

Our first glimpse Exit Glacier
Our first glimpse Exit Glacier

We had a chance to take a hike up alongside the glacier for a couple of miles.

A look at Exit Glacier from just a few yards away
A look at Exit Glacier from just a few yards away

As we got closer to the ice, we found that the glacier was creating its own cold breeze.  The lower area near the visitor’s center was actually hot, and we were attacked by flies.  Once we got up a few feet, it was quite pleasant, perhaps chilly.  There is a longer hike (approximately 8 hours) that takes you up to the edge of the ice field, but we didn’t have time for that.  We needed to get back for our second cruise.

A block of ice that has fallen off Exit Glacier
A block of ice that has fallen off Exit Glacier
Getting ready for our cruise
Getting ready for our cruise

Before heading out to Exit Glacier, we had signed up for a four-hour cruise out Resurrection Bay into the Gulf of Alaska to look at wildlife.  Our hope was to see porpoises, whales, and puffins.

Tommy looking "nautical" on our way out of the harbor
Tommy looking "nautical" on our way out of the harbor

The cruise included an all-you-can eat prime rib and salmon buffet.  The food was terrific.  On the way back to port, there was an all-you-can eat dessert buffet.  Based on prices for food in Alaska, one serving of each would have cost more in most restaurants than we paid for the buffet.

Sammy, Tommy, and Candy looking at jellyfish
Sammy, Tommy, and Candy looking at jellyfish

The boat holds up to 200 people, but for whatever reason only 19 were signed up for this cruise.  The limited number of passengers enabled the crew to provide more personalized attention and reduced the jockeying for position on the rail to see wildlife.

Again the cruise included a National Park Service Ranger who provided narration throughout the four-hour ride.  The ranger told us that these charter cruise companies pay the Park Service to provide these rangers, which in turn allows them to hire more part-time rangers to assist with managing the vast lands controlled by the Department of the Interior.

Several glacier-created islands on our way out of Resurrection Bay
Several glacier-created islands on our way out of Resurrection Bay
Porpoises following our boat
Porpoises following our boat

The porpoises were designated “awesome” by Sammy.

A distant view of a Humpback Whale
A distant view of a Humpback Whale

We never got too close to this whale, but he was clearly visible several times.  The ranger explained that when whales are sleeping they bob near the surface, coming up from time to time to breathe.

Candy enjoying her fourth Harvey Wallbanger
Candy enjoying her fourth Harvey Wallbanger

Just kidding… but we did enjoy soft drinks and later some hot chocolate.

We met our objectives of spotting porpoises, whales, and puffins!  Tommy was hoping to see a Beluga whale, but we didn’t.

The view above our campsite in Seward
The view above our campsite in Seward

We slept that night in a campground right along the water.  When we woke up we were greeted by yet another perfect weather day!

The Alaska Sealife Center
The Alaska Sealife Center

The agenda called for us to visit the Alaska Sealife Center in Seward.  Partially funded by Federal money and partially funded by an Exxon Valdez trust fund, this center is involved in aquatic research and the rehabilitation of wounded animals.  When the weather was so nice the previous day, we pushed this off a day, fully expecting that the weather would turn bad and it would be good to enjoy an indoor activity.

Commodore Sammy
Commodore Sammy
Some kind of crab
Some kind of crab
Sammy and Tommy touching stuff
Sammy and Tommy touching stuff

The Sealife Center was nicely laid out with some innovative exhibits.  I thought it was worth the time we spent there.  They also had once of the nicest gift shops we’d seen throughout our visit to Alaska.

They continue to touch stuff
They continue to touch stuff
A puffin
A puffin
A strange sort of star fish
A strange sort of starfish, called a Basket Starfish
Seals
Seals
A sea lion
A sea lion

Sadly our trip is beginning to come to an end.  After lunch in Seward, we headed back toward Anchorage for our last night in Alaska.  Along the way we pulled off at some scenic overlooks to see some of the sites that were difficult to see because of the rain on our way southward.

The view along the road back to Anchorage from Seward
The view along the road back to Anchorage from Seward

Somewhere during our drive, I got an Email from my buddy Sam Fuson who was once stationed at Ft. Richardson.  He recommended that we have halibut at the Sourdough Mining Company.  The food was terrific and so plentiful that even Tom had trouble finishing his dinner.  Most nights there is a singer and storyteller in the evenings, but we happened to get there the one night in 10 years that he was ill.

The view from Bird Point in the Turnagain Arm area
The view from Bird Point in the Turnagain Arm area

Well…  we get on the plane tomorrow for another 12 hours in the air back to Baltimore with stops in Seattle and Detroit.  Ca ca.  Another vacation has come to a close.

 

2014 Vacation: Days 8 and 9

A view of nearby mountains through the morning mist
A view of nearby mountains through the morning mist

After our perfect day on Mt. McKinley, the next day was rainy all day.  We stopped at a couple of scenic overlooks as we drove south from our campsite, but the rain and fog really limited visibility.   We also make a quick stop at Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson to restock the pantry.

Looking around the museum at the mine
Looking around the museum at the mine

To break up the drive, we stopped at the Indian Creek mine where a character talked to us about the mine and some of the antiques he had collected.  We were only able to see the mine entrance, but it was a good way to get off the road for a while.  The museum was housed in an old log cabin which had once been pushed all the way onto the river ice by an avalanche.  It was moved back and many years later was designated a national historic site, dating past the Alaska gold rush.  The owner said that initially the Smithsonian wouldn’t grant historic site designation, because the cabin wasn’t in its original location, but once they found out that natural forces moved it, they relented.

Sammy making friends with a beluga
Sammy making friends with a beluga

We stopped at another scenic overlook because of the rain.  After a few hands of dominoes, the rain subsided.  We walked around the overlook.  Again, the rain and fog limited visibility, but we found these interesting sculptures of beluga whales.

Along the hike
Along the hike

Near Girdwood we took a 5 mile hike.  The attraction here was the hand tram over Glacier Creek.  It rained the whole way, but it was a good hike.

Tommy and Sammy pulling themselves in the hand tram across the raging stream
Tommy and Sammy pulling themselves in the hand tram across the raging stream

The hand tram was really neat.  Up to two people could get in this cage and then pull themselves across with the rope.  All of us took a turn in the bucket.

Looking down through the floor of the hand tram
Looking down through the floor of the hand tram

After returning from the hike and drying off a bit, we bought a pizza in Girdwood and drove to our campsite for the night.  We stayed in the Willawa camp ground, managed by the Forest Service.  The campsites were far apart and surrounded by trees, so it didn’t seem very crowded.  When we went to bed, we weren’t sure about whether the weather would cooperate for our planned glacier cruise the next day.

A view along the morning hike
A view along the morning hike

We had a lot of low fog the next morning.  (This stream was supposed to be full of spawning salmon, but we saw none.)  We weren’t sure about the cruise, but there was a little blue poking through the clouds, so after a brief stop at a visitors center for information, we drove through the tunnel to Whittier.

Only you can prevent forest fires!
Only you can prevent forest fires!

The tunnel is the longest tunnel in the world shared by vehicles and trains.  On the half hour traffic is permitted to drive into Whittier.  On the hour, traffic comes out of Whittier.  In between, trains use the tunnel.

A glacier viewed through two mountains
A glacier viewed through two mountains

Whittier was built by the US Army during WWII as a supply depot.  Supplies would be unloaded in Whittier (on Prince William Sound) and taken inland by train.  Today almost the entire population of the town lives in a single high-rise building built to house soldiers and their families.

We had a Forest Service ranger provide narrating during our cruise
We had a Forest Service ranger provide narrating during our cruise

When we came through the tunnel to Whittier, the weather was beautiful.  It was sunny, warm, and blue.  We bought our tickets and boarded for our cruise to see 26 glaciers.  On board was a ranger from the US Forest Service who provided narration, which was terrific.  He also helped spot wildlife.

Sea lions lounging on "egg rocks"
Sea lions lounging on "egg rocks"

The first portion of the cruise was just getting out to the interesting stuff.  They served us a very nice cod lunch to pass the time.  The food was quite good.  Eventually we arrived at the sea lion rookery (shown above), where we saw many sea lions.  The boat could not get too close to the sea lions to avoid disturbing them.

What a handsome dude!
What a handsome dude!

We saw all 26 glaciers.  I was checking them off on the map.  There were so many amazing sights that it was difficult not to become jaded.

One of the tidewater glaciers that come down to the water's edge
One of the tidewater glaciers that come down to the water's edge

The ranger told us that there are only about 10 days this nice all Summer on Prince William Sound.  After the excellent day on Mt. McKinley and the crappy day the day before, we were amazed at our luck!

Reflections
Reflections

Among the wildlife we spotted we saw many sea otters lounging in the water.

Sea otters
Sea otters

The total cruise time was over five hours, getting us back in time to make the on-the-hour train out of Whittier.

Surprise glacier
Surprise glacier

The Cook expedition was stopped by ice, so his maps missed an arm of the Sound that led to this glacier.  When the Harriman expedition found this arm in a later expedition, they were greeted by this huge glacier, so it is called “Surprise Glacier.”  We were hoping to see it calve (a big chunk falling off into the water), but didn’t.  The boat loitered here for a while, and we got some amazing views.

10,000 gulls nesting together on the rocks
10,000 gulls nesting together on the rocks
Our boat, the Klondike Express
Our boat, the Klondike Express

After driving back through the long tunnel from Whittier, we headed toward Seward.  Candy found a very nice camp ground with full hookups about 20 minutes north of Seward, our destination for the next day.

Our motor home parked at the Renfro's campsite not far from Seward
Our motor home parked at the Renfro's campsite not far from Seward
The lake at sunset at our campsite
The lake at sunset at our campsite

The campground has its own lake front, and the kids took a turn in one of the paddle boats after dinner.

Looking to the East from our campsite
Looking to the East from our campsite

This was one of our last sights (at 2300 hours) before going to bed.  What a place!

Family Vacation: Days 5, 6, and 7

Entering Denali National Park
Entering Denali National Park

After a quick stop in the town outside the national park for some souvenir hunting and lunch, we headed into the Denali National Park.  Denali consists of over six million acres, and there is just one road through it, so we took our time driving to the Teklaneeka campground deep inside the park, taking in the sights along the way.  The RV did reasonably well on the gravel road.

Looking down at Horseshoe Lake during a short hike
Looking down at Horseshoe Lake during a short hike

Before getting on the long road to the campground, however, we took a short hike around Horseshoe lake.  We didn’t see any animals, but we saw a beaver dam that was probably 40 yards long.  No beaver.

Tommy and a moose
Tommy and a moose

The next morning we got up very early to catch the first bus toward Wonder Lake.  Our thought was that we would see more wildlife on the early bus.  We did.  It started with a pair of moose hanging out near the bus stop.  You can see one behind Tommy’s shoulder in this picture.

A female moose
A female moose

Soon after departing we encountered another one.

A view from along the road through Denali
A view from along the road through Denali

It was a four hour bus ride from our campground to Wonder Lake.  Along the way we saw some beautiful scenery and many animals.  The only one of the “big” animals we didn’t see was a wolf.

Very beautiful view from along the road
Very beautiful view from along the road

We encountered two golden eagles perched on rocks above the road.  This picture is one of them flying away.

Another moose sighting!
Another moose sighting!

Two German girls were on the bus, taking pictures of their own moose at various stops.

The bus driver, Darlene was quite good.  She stopped frequently and had lots of good stories.

Sammy the caribou
Sammy the caribou

This picture was taken at a short rest stop along the way.

A small group of caribou
A small group of caribou
Moose frollicking through the tundra
Moose frollicking through the tundra

We saw more moose on this four-hour bus ride than we did during our entire visit to Maine.

Wonder lake
Wonder lake

Considering its name, Wonder Lake was a bit anti-climactic.  From here, however, we took a five mile hike out and back along the McKinley Bar trail, which took us through rocks and woods to the river.

Tommy helping Candy across a small mud puddle on our hike along the McKinley Bar Trail
Tommy helping Candy across a small mud puddle on our hike along the McKinley Bar Trail
A view of ptarmigans along the trail
A view of ptarmigans along the trail

On the way back we encountered three rock ptarmigans, the Alaska state bird.  They looked a lot like pheasant or grouse to me.  They eventually flew off as we continued our hike.

Caribou grazing near the bus
Caribou grazing near the bus

Another caribou near the bus on our ride back toward camp.

The line of latrines at one of the rest stops
The line of latrines at one of the rest stops

The rest stops along the bus route looked like this.  The doors were probably three inches thick and heavily reinforced to keep out bears and other animals.  All were very clean!

A game of rummy
A game of rummy

That night we played rummy and watched a little television before bed.

Homework time while on the road
Homework time while on the road

The next morning we left the campground and headed southward.  On our way up, we had tried to get a flight up to a glacier on the slopes of Mt. McKinley.  This morning the clouds cleared, and it looked like we might be able to fly, so we packed up and headed back to Talkeetna.  During a portion of the drive, the kids worked on their Summer reading.

Tommy working on his Summer reading
Tommy working on his Summer reading
Our first clear view of Mt. McKinley
Our first clear view of Mt. McKinley

Then we turned a bend in the road and there was Mt. McKinley.  They say only 31% of visitors to Alaska get to see the whole mountain.  It was much more impressive than this picture conveys.  Mt. McKinley is the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere, at 20k+ feet of elevation.

Another view of Mt. McKinley from Talkeetna
Another view of Mt. McKinley from Talkeetna

We stopped several times along the way to get different and better shots of the mountain.  The sky got better and better all day.

Getting "booted up" for our glacier walk
Getting "booted up" for our glacier walk

We were lucky to get a 1430 flight up the mountain for a glacier landing from Talkeetna.  Each of us donned a pair of protective over boots so that we could walk around in the snow on the glacier.

Ready for takeoff
Ready for takeoff

There were six of us plus the pilot on this DeHaviland Beaver.

Approaching Mt. McKinley by air
Approaching Mt. McKinley by air

The flight was smooth, and along the way the pilot had a lot of interesting things to point out.  I got to sit up front and take lots of pictures.

Getting closer
Getting closer

The glaciers on Mt. McKinley are growing at an average rate of about three feet a day.  The guide said that the glaciers act like frozen rivers.  They have falls, currents, and even cataracts.

Ice fall
Ice fall

Here you can see where ice has formed, cracked, and fallen.  These falls grow at a rate of six or more feet per day and push the glacier down the valley.

On the glacier with Mt. McKinley in the distance
On the glacier with Mt. McKinley in the distance

Landing on the glacier was interesting.  The surface was slushy, so the plane slid around on its skis until it came to a stop.  The temperature was about 30 degrees, but it felt much warmer due to the sun and the heat radiating off the snow and rocks.

Our plane
Our plane

We spent about 25 minutes on the glacier before returning to Talkeetna.  The guide told us that glaciologists come up here to study the McKinley glaciers quite frequently.  They have taken deep core samples.  Air is trapped in the glaciers, so core samples reveal things about the air 10s of thousands of years ago.  For the global warming crowd, the scientists who study these glaciers say that the percent of greenhouse gasses in the air 10,000 years ago is about the same as it is today.

A view of "rapids" along the Ruth glacier
A view of "rapids" along the Ruth glacier

In this picture you can see how the ice cracks as it flows downhill.  Also note the light blue patches.  The color of the glacial ice is blue.  It doesn’t show in most of the pictures, but in person you could see the slightly blue color.  The light blue patches in this picture are deep fissures or crevasses that have filled with snow.  When the sun is out, the top layers melt a little and turn into these light blue lakes or ponds.

After returning to Talkeetna, we played in the elementary school playground for a few minutes and then headed South to Houston to stop for the night before continuing south past Anchorage.

 

Vacation 2014: Days 3 and 4

Walking uphill to Thunderbird Falls
Walking uphill to Thunderbird Falls

Day three involved a drive from Anchorage to Talkeetna with ad hoc stops along the way.  Candy has a great book that has everything in Alaska by milepost.  We made an impromptu stop at a pullout for Thunderbird Falls.  After a mile hike over mostly easy trail, we reached the falls.

Thunderbird Falls
Thunderbird Falls

They were nice, but not the most spectacular falls we’ve ever seen.  Still, it was a nice hike and a great way to break up the drive.

The Iditarod Headquarters
The Iditarod Headquarters

Farther up the road, in Wasilla (Sarah Palin’s home town), we visited the Iditarod Race Headquarters.  The race actually begins in Anchorage, but the headquarters is in Wasilla.

Some of the artifacts inside the Iditarod HQ
Some of the artifacts inside the Iditarod HQ

Inside the gift store they showed an eighteen-minute movie and had some very interesting race memorabilia.  I was hoping that the movie would talk more about the history of the race.  It was in fact more like a racing documentary, discussing the mushers competing in the 2012 race.  In anchorage we learned that this race commemorates an historical event.  One winter there was an outbreak of diphtheria in Nome and the only way to get the serum from Anchorage was by dogsled.  Sometime in the the 60’s or 70’s someone came up with the idea or resurrecting the event for sport, not unlike running a marathon, which was initially to commemorate the end of the battle of Marathon.

Miller's in Houston, AK
Miller's in Houston, AK

Still farther up the road toward Talkeetna we stopped at Miller’s roadside cafe.  They were reputed to have great burgers and ice cream.  They did.  This was a neat place: combination general store, ice cream parlor, burger joint, coffee house, and post office.  In fact the Postmaster is the person who cooked our food.

Hmmm. To lick or not to lick?
Hmmm. To lick or not to lick?

We topped off our food with ice cream and got back on the road.

Our campsite at Talkeetna
Our campsite at Talkeetna

Eventually we arrived in Talkeetna.  The town, which has a year-round population of ~800, was originally a transit point where goods were take off barges and the hauled by mules, horses, or dog sleds farther into the interior.  Today it is largely a tourist attraction, with gift stores, place to eat, river rafting excursions, and flights to glaciers on Mt. McKinley.

Downtown Talkeetna
Downtown Talkeetna

We signed up for a flight up to a glacier on Mt. McKinley the next day and walked into town to look around.

Entering downtown Talkeetna
Entering downtown Talkeetna
Future mushers
Future mushers
Smooch!
Smooch!
Zoom!
Zoom!
The garlic spinach bread here was awesome!
The garlic spinach bread here was awesome!
Nagley's General Store in Talkeetna
Nagley's General Store in Talkeetna

This town was the model for the town in the television show Northern Exposure.  One of the locals told us that the high school (fed by three towns) graduated 22 last year.  This general store reminded me of the one in my grandmother’s home town in Illinois.   There was a little bit of everything in the store, from bread to bait and from animal skins to snacks.

The master chef grills teriyaki chicken kabobs
The master chef grills teriyaki chicken kabobs

That night I made chicken kabobs on the grill for dinner.  We finished the day with a little ice cream while watching an episode of the Mission Impossible TV show.  It began to rain that night.  The next morning, clouds hung low in the sky and visibility was limited.  Our flight to the glacier was cancelled.  We, therefore, took our time getting packed up and then headed toward the entrance to Denali National Park.

Sam goofing in front of the Alaska Veteran's Memorial
Sam goofing in front of the Alaska Veteran's Memorial

One of our stops this day was in Denali State Park, where we saw the Alaska Veteran’s Memorial.  Nearby were some VERY interesting placards describing interesting vignettes about Alaska at War, mostly WWII and the Cold War.  There was also a story about a Confederate ship, the Shenandoah, which was sent to Alaska to sink Union whaling boats.  Apparently, profits from whale hunting were important sources of revenue to finance the war.  The Shenandoah sank 6 or 8 Union whaling vessels, continuing its mission for six months after the war had officially ended.  There is debate among historians as to whether the crew knew the war was over and kept sinking ships anyway.  This whole memorial area was a really unexpected gem.

A view of the mountains along Parks Highway
A view of the mountains along Parks Highway

You can see by this picture that it was drizzly all day, and visibility was limited.  We should have been able to see Mt. McKinley most of the day, but the thick clouds got in the way.  We eventually arrived at our campsite just a few miles outside the gate to the Denali National Park.  I barely had time to finish cooking burgers for dinner on our little grill before the sky opened up.  We are told that the weather will get progressively better throughout the weekend, so we have hopes of a good visit to the National Park and making another attempt to fly up the mountain and land on a glacier.

2014 Family Vacation: Days 1 and 2

This year’s family vacation is a trip to Alaska.  Once again, Candy has painstakingly planned this event.  Day one was a travel day from Baltimore through Detroit through Seattle to Anchorage.  In Detroit Metro airport we had a long layover, which enabled us to get a stack of Coney Island hotdogs at National Coney Island.  I was quite disappointed in not being able to find a Vernors ginger ale.

Candy and Tom at National Coney Island
Candy and Tom at National Coney Island

We also learned — almost by accident — that there is a USO-like organization operating in the Detroit airport, so we had a chance to sit on comfortable couches and have a drink in a quiet place while we waited for our flight.

Our first view of Alaska
Our first view of Alaska

After nearly 10.5 hours in the air and two layovers, we finally caught a glimpse of Alaska.  You can see a glacier under the wing along the southeastern coast of Alaska.  This was about 0100 East Coast time.

We are renting an RV for this trip.  We arrived after the rental agency, Great Alaska Highways, was closed.  The rental agency is used to having people arrive late, so they had the keys for our RV on the rear wheel and allowed us to sleep in it overnight.  The picture above was taken at about 2200 at night; Anchorage had 17.5 hours of daylight yesterday.  We arrived got to bed after midnight after we unpacked our suit cases into the various drawers, closets, and cubby holes.  The next morning we got our training on the RV and were on our way.

Waking up -- slowly
Waking up -- slowly

Our first stop was downtown anchorage for a trolley tour and brief history lesson.  We learned quite a bit about the great earthquake (the second largest in world history) and some other interesting facts.

The visitor's center in Anchorage
The visitor's center in Anchorage
Hotdogs and bratwurst from a street vendor in downtown Anchorage
Hotdogs and bratwurst from a street vendor in downtown Anchorage

I found this sign near the visitor’s center interesting.

Sam makes a friend
Sam makes a friend

After a couple of hours wandering around some gift shops, we headed out of town.  Our first stop was our proposed camp sight for the first night — just a couple miles outside Anchorage near Joint Base Elmendorf Richardson.  We reserved our camp sight and then went to visit the Alaska Heritage Center.

A semi-subterranean native Alaskan dwelling
A semi-subterranean native Alaskan dwelling

The Alaska Heritage Center includes villages representing the 11 major cultural groups in Alaska.  Most had high school aged docents from those regions and cultures who described the traditional dwellings, tools, and other artifacts.  Except in the southeastern part of Alaska, which is classified as rainforest, most of the state is permafrost.  The native Alaskans built semi subterranean dwellings that protected them from the harsh temperatures.  The picture above shows the entrance to a reproduction of one such dwelling.

A young man shows off his skills at a native Alaskan athletic event
A young man shows off his skills at a native Alaskan athletic event

In addition there were a number of talks by the high school aged kids and some demonstrations of native dancing and sports.  The picture above shows one native athletic event in which the participant, starting from a standing position, jumps straight up and tries to kick a ball hanging in the air.  The demonstrator placed third in the recent native Alaskan athletic games.

We also took the time to do something really touristy at the Alaskan Heritage Center:  we got pulled in a training sled around a short course by a team of dogs that completed this year’s Iditarod competition.  Afterward we had a chance to see some of the dogs, who were amazingly friendly.  I expected them to be more wild.

A whale skeleton
A whale skeleton

After about four hours at the Alaska Heritage Center we went to Joint Base Elmendorf Richardson to stock up our camper with food for the next week or so.  Then we retired to our camp sight for a light dinner of grilled cheese sandwiches and chicken noodle soup.  We were quite tired from the previous day’s traveling and late night, so we hit the sack early.

The temperature was between 55 and 65 all day.  The weather and scenery were terrific.

 

Hiking the Grand Canyon with the Venture Crew

This past week I was one of five adults who supported a trip to hike the Grand Canyon rim-to-rim.  (Venturing is a program of Boy Scouts of America that is co-ed.)  The trip included three major phases:  two days in Bryce Canyon, four days in the Grand Canyon, and two days in Las Vegas.

The Crew arrives in Las Vegas and finds our bags
The Crew arrives in Las Vegas and finds our bags

Early last Saturday we flew from BWI to Las Vegas with all our camping gear.  Then we rented a 15-passenger van (with surprisingly little cargo capacity) for the three hour drive to Bryce Canyon.  Despite the cramped conditions in the vehicle, everyone was in high spirits.  We stopped at Walmart near the airport and bought all our food for the camping days and then headed to Bryce.

The entrance of Bryce Canyon
The entrance of Bryce Canyon
The Crew
The Crew

We spent a day and a half hiking around Bryce Canyon.  This was a good shakedown and opportunity for people to exercise those hiking muscles prior to the main event.

A view of the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon
A view of the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon

We camped two nights in the Bryce Canyon campground and hiked during the day.  A couple of the adventurous kids and I got up early to see the sunrise over the hoodoos.

The "Natural Bridge" at Bryce Canyon
The "Natural Bridge" at Bryce Canyon
Cooking quesadillas in the Bryce Canyon campground
Cooking quesadillas in the Bryce Canyon campground

Our last morning in Bryce we took a final hike to see the “mossy cave.”  Nearby was a nice side hike up to a window formed in the rocks by wind and erosion.

The final hike at Bryce before heading to the North Rim
The final hike at Bryce before heading to the North Rim

This last hike was a lot of fun.  I remember making this hike with our kids many years ago the first time we visited Bryce.  We crammed ourselves back into the van and drove three hours to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  We chose to start our rim-to-rim hike from the North Rim because it is 1000 feet higher than the South Rim.  We figured this would be a slightly easier route.

Entering the Grand Canyon
Entering the Grand Canyon

The first day, North Rim to the Cottonwood campground, began at 0540.  Our aim was to avoid hiking in the heat of the day.  It was actually cold when we departed, so you can see some of the folks wearing jackets in the picture below.  As we moved down into the canyon, the temperature rose.

Heading out at 0540
Heading out at 0540

Below you can see us snaking around a switchback.  You can see in the background just how deep we were going to go during this first hike.

Early in the looooong downhill trek
Early in the looooong downhill trek

The first portion of the hike involved a large number of switch backs.  After hiking for about a mile and a half, we stopped to rest.  I was thinking that the hike wasn’t as bad as I expected, but then it got worse!

One of the many beautiful views as we descended toward the valley floor (note the trail far below)
One of the many beautiful views as we descended toward the valley floor (note the trail far below)

There is debate among the Crew as to whether the first or last day was harder.  After we crossed the bridge shown below, the sun came out, and the next couple of miles were brutal.

This bridge over a gorge marked the beginning of the most grueling part of the first day's trek
This bridge over a gorge marked the beginning of the most grueling part of the first day's trek

The scenery throughout the hike to Cottonwood was breathtaking.  The hike was about 7 miles long, and we were pretty tired when we finally stopped.

Wow!
Wow!

We arrived at Cottonwood by noon.  There was little shade in the Spartan campsite.  The temperatures was over 100 degrees.  Some of the folks sought the little shade that was available and played cards.  I took four of the kids to see the Ribbon Falls (pictures to be posted in a subsequent article).  While I didn’t feel like hiking an extra three miles, Ribbon Falls were definitely worth the effort.

One of the two campsites in the Cottonwood area
One of the two campsites in the Cottonwood area

The “girls'” campsite was visited by a small rattlesnake which slowly made its away across the trail to another site.

A rest stop along the Cottonwood to Phantom Ranch hike
A rest stop along the Cottonwood to Phantom Ranch hike

The next morning we set out early through “the box” from Cottonwood to Phantom Ranch.  We set out early to avoid the direct sun.  It worked.  All day (7.2 miles) the direct sunlight was blocked by the high canyon walls, so we arrived at Phantom Ranch in good condition.

Early morning view as we head from Cottonwood toward Phantom Ranch
Early morning view as we head from Cottonwood toward Phantom Ranch

The walk was mostly downhill, and the terrain wasn’t very rough.  Because we avoided the direct sunlight, the hike was pleasant.  We actually arrived at Phantom Ranch sooner than we had expected.

Arriving at Phantom Ranch
Arriving at Phantom Ranch

We turned around a corner and found a sign saying “Bright Angel Campground .3 miles ahead.”  Phantom Ranch has flush toilets and a terrific creek in which to sit and cool off.  It also had Kamikaze squirrels who preyed on our backpacks looking for food.  In fact, they’ve gotten so used to stealing food from campers that they are attracted to the smell of plastic bags in which food is usually stored.

The temperatures at Phantom Ranch reached 120 degrees by mid afternoon.  The thermometers near the Bright Angel Campground said it “felt like” 130 degrees.

Steak dinner at the Phantom Ranch Canteen
Steak dinner at the Phantom Ranch Canteen

That night we had a wonderful steak dinner.  You have to reserve and pay for this in advance.  All the food is carried down by mule that day and included very good steaks, baked potatoes, corn, peas, cornbread, and a great salad.  I was surprised at the fresh butter and sour cream for the potatoes.  Every was stuffed.  After dinner many of us hit the sack early, but a couple of the kids came back to the canteen to play cards.  The next morning we had a bacon, eggs, and pancakes breakfast and picked up bag lunches before heading out.   These pre-paid meals allowed us to reduce the weight in our packs by three meals.  All the food was excellent.

Crossing the Silver Bridge over the Colorado River near Phantom Ranch
Crossing the Silver Bridge over the Colorado River near Phantom Ranch

We were up at four and on the trail by 0530.  Just outside Phantom Ranch we crossed over the Colorado River on this bridge, which was narrow and swayed as people tromped over it.  The view was amazing.

The Silver Bridge over the Colorado River
The Silver Bridge over the Colorado River

A little way up the hill toward Indian Garden, you can see the view of the river and the Silver bridge.

A view up from along the trail
A view up from along the trail

The hike from Phantom Ranch to Indian Garden was about 5 miles, mostly up hill.  At the end of the hike there were lots of sore muscles and tired campers.  We made this hike in just over three miles and arrived at the campground sooner than expected.

Arriving at Indian Garden campsite
Arriving at Indian Garden campsite

While Indian Garden had a creek that was deemed “lame” by the kids compared to the creeks at either Cottonwood or Phantom Ranch, all the campsites had shade.  We had thick cloud cover all afternoon, which further cut the heat.  A couple of us even managed to take a nap in the late morning.

Some of the crew engaging in yoga to loosen tired muscles
Some of the crew engaging in yoga to loosen tired muscles
Hiking up the trail from Indian Garden toward the South Rim
Hiking up the trail from Indian Garden toward the South Rim

The next morning we woke at 0300, planning a 0430 start time for the last 4.5 miles of the hike to the South Rim.  This was straight up for 4.5 miles.  The picture above gives you a sense for the climb.  We stopped every 1.5 miles for a water break.

Kitt in front of a sign with our favorite expression about hiking the Grand Canyon
Kitt in front of a sign with our favorite expression about hiking the Grand Canyon

Less than a mile from the South Rim and the Bright Angel trailhead we saw this sign: “Going down is optional; up is mandatory.”

A view back down the trail -- note the switch backs
A view back down the trail -- note the switch backs

Here is another picture which provides some idea of the difficulty of the climb with full backpacks.  In the center is the three mile rest house from a few minutes farther up the trail.

Done!
Mission complete!

At 0830, a half hour ahead of schedule, we arrived at the trailhead.  I asked everyone to pretend they were tired for this pictures, since none of us were really tired.

Everyone did well.  Several had doubts when we began whether they could finish the walk.  “Up is mandatory,”  however.  In the end, many of the participants accomplished more than they expected and learned something about themselves.  More importantly at the end of four tough days, everyone was still friends.  We had no serious sun burns and few injuries, other than three bruised toes.

Just a few minutes after we completed the hike, Candy showed up with the van.  After spending an hour repacking duffle bags in shoving all our gear back in the van, we all headed for the gift shop to get our “rim to rim” T-shirts.  After a large lunch in the nearby lodge, we headed to Williams, Arizona for some rest and relaxation, which included showers, time in the pool, showers, horseshoes, showers, pizza, showers, and early bedtime.

HAWKs’ Armies for Kids Project, 2015

For several years, the Harford Area Weekly Kriegspielers (HAWKs)  have been running a really neat event at Historicon.  In addition to the other games we run at the convention that are targeted toward younger gamers (we dedicate a table throughout Saturday of the con to only kids’ games) we run a special event.  This event, the Armies for Kids game, involves kids who are under 10 usually using Milk and Cookies Rules (from Big Battles for Little Hands).  After the event is over, each kid gets to take away two complete, painted armies and some other goodies.  In the past we’ve provided terrain pieces, rules, tape measures, etc.

This year’s project is 25/28mm Napoleonics.  Using a combination of figures from a number donors, including the NASHCON staff, we have pieced together six sets for this year.  Each kid who plays in the game will receive a French army and an army from one of the opposing powers.  There are a handful of painted figures that couldn’t be made into units and a box of unpainted lead as well.  During the game the game master (Eric Schlegel this year) will ask the kids some history questions.  If they answer correctly, they get to take something from these extras.

The picture at the top of this post shows some of the HAWKs working on Father’s Day to assemble the donations into armies, rebase many of the figures, and make small repairs.  The picture below shows one of the armies being assembled.

This year’s donations included some old Scruby figures and other rarities that are the “missing link” between the toy soldiers of Little Wars and modern wargaming figures.  Other donations include Calpe 28mm figures and some old “small 25’s.”  We tried to match up figures by size in each child’s army, but it’s not perfect.

Next year’s project will be 40mm ACW skirmish.  We are building around a very generous donation of painted 40mm Union troops.  If you have any 40mm Confederates you’d like to donate, or any other donations you’d like to consider, please contact me at surdu@acm.org.  The donations all go to kids.  In very rare cases we’ve sold or traded some of the donations in order to purchase missing items to build complete armies.  We think this is a really nice way to do something about the “graying of the hobby” beyond complaining about it.  When you see the look on the kids’ faces, it makes the many hours spent during the year well worth the effort.

HAWKs Expeditionary Force to NASHCON 2014

For the second year in a row a subset of the Harford Area Weekly Kreigspeilers (HAWKs) from the Baltrimore area headed down to NASHCON for the weekend of gaming.  This year’s expeditionary force was Dave, Chris, Duncan, Don, Greg, and me.

Packing Up for NASHCON 2014
Packing Up for NASHCON 2014

We had signed up to run 15 games throughout the weekend.  We tried to pack lightly, but 15 games in scales running from 1:2400 naval to 28mm ancients require a lot of terrain, figures, and other paraphernalia.  We rented a 12-passenger van, loaded it with our gear, and headed southward.

Unpacking at NASHCON
Unpacking at NASHCON

The drive was long — over 12 hours.  Despite some traffic snarls along the way, the trip was uneventful.  We arrived Thursday night.  Gaming doesn’t begin until 1400 on Friday, so we had lots of time to unload the van and then divvy up all the gear for our various games.

Steve from Age of Glory setting up his booth at NASHCON
Steve from Age of Glory setting up his booth at NASHCON
Some of the HAWKs take a tour of the Battle of Franklin
Some of the HAWKs take a tour of the Battle of Franklin

Before the gaming began, four of us took the opportunity to take a guided tour of the Battle of Franklin around the Carey House.  I didn’t know much about this battle.  Without the guide, I’m not sure we would have gotten much out of walking the area, as there were very few markers.  The guide was quite good.

The calm before the storm:  breakfast on Friday morning before all the gaming began
The calm before the storm: breakfast on Friday morning before all the gaming began

We all found it interesting how many things occurred during this short engagement that gamers often complain about when those things happen to them in a war-game.  Examples are when the entire Union army marched past the Confederates encamped just 200 yards off the road they were using, a battery standing up in desperate hand-to-hand combat against determined infantry, units not moving when the commander would like them to, veteran units in entrenchments running away, but green units in the open standing, etc.  I was quite pleased that I’ve seen all of these things happen in games using the Look, Sarge family of rules.  A good set of rules should enable or allow such events while not requiring them or constraining them to take place.

Our first gaming session involved Chris Palmer’s Battle of Five Armies game with Bear Yourselves Valiantly, Duncan’s Charted Seas WWII naval game, and my G.A.M.E.R. TM  Commandos game.

Chris' Battle of Fire Armies setup
Chris' Battle of Fire Armies setup

Chris ran this twice, once at 1400 on Friday and again at 0900 on Saturday.

The Battle of Fire Armies underway
The Battle of Fire Armies underway
Chris going over the Bear Yourselves Valiantly rules with some players
Chris going over the Bear Yourselves Valiantly rules with some players

Duncan’s naval game seemed to go well despite only have two players.

Duncan's Charted Seas WWII naval game
Duncan's Charted Seas WWII naval game

Here are three shots of my WWII skirmish game, using G.A.M.E.R. TM.  I talked Steve from Age of glory into joining us for the game.  He is usually running his booth and doesn’t get time to play.

Commandos get distracted from their objective to engage some Germans in the woods
Commandos get distracted from their objective to engage some Germans in the woods
Advancing commandos
Advancing commandos

The scenario involved a group of commandos attacking a coastal villa to seize and Enigma machine.  They are supported by some partisans.  The partisans arrived too late to do more than divert some of the Germans.  The Germans were on the ropes much of the game and has half a squad head for the hills at one point.  In the end, the commandos stormed the villa but were defeated in hand-to-hand fighting with a couple of guards and two officers with pistols.

Steve conducts an attack with his Germans
Steve conducts an attack with his Germans

I only had two players for this game.  There were many more games being offered than gamers for this first session.  I guess that this convention is largely attended by locals who chose not to take off work on Friday to game.  Light weights!  Lots of people commented on the G.A.M.E.R. TM mechanics later.  I think if I had run the game on Saturday, I would have filled it up.  The folks like the mechanics.

Don and Greg ran a series of French and Indian War games.  Friday night it was Dr. Who during the FIW using the Dr. Who Miniatures game in a scenario based on the Curse of Fenric Tom Baker episode.  This scenario, however, involved a more modern Doctor and his companions.

My Acheson Creation fort -- first time on the table
My Acheson Creation fort -- first time on the table
Greg always seems to attract all the women at a convention into his Dr. Who games
Greg always seems to attract all the women at a convention into his Dr. Who games
Amy, Rory, and River advance up a road
Amy, Rory, and River advance up a road

Saturday morning and afternoon, Greg and Don ran Muskets and Tomahawks.  The morning session was supposed to be a series of small games that would influence the larger afternoon game.  Only two people showed up for the morning session, but they seems to have fun.  The afternoon session was over full and went really well.

Don explaining Muskets and Tomahawks
Don explaining Muskets and Tomahawks

They used the overgrown fort in the center of the table to divide the two smaller games for the morning session.  It looked neat and gave me some ideas for some scenarios I might run in the future.

Muskets and Tomahawks Saturday morning
Muskets and Tomahawks Saturday morning

Duncan ran his War of 1812 game using Wellington Rules.  The scenario involves an American attack to repulse the British before the Battle of New Orleans.  The game outcome was quite similar to the real battle.

The British encampment
The British encampment

Duncan has written some very nice night rules for Wellington Rules that open up the possibility for friendly fire and really limit command and control in the dark.    With my well-known dice-rolling luck, I availed myself of the friendly fire rule many times.  I had a unit fire on Dave’s unit in the flank three times and rout it.  Once they did make contact with the enemy, they didn’t last long before bugging out themselves.

Battle rages
Battle rages
My unit in hunting shirts that caused more damage to friendly forces than the enemy
My unit in hunting shirts that caused more damage to friendly forces than the enemy

Dave Wood ran two Bear Yourselves Valiantly games on Saturday, a fantasy one and a Roman one.  I didn’t get any good pictures of the Roman game, but here are two pictures of the fantasy game.  I played in the fantasy one and rolled a statistically improbable number of ones, which did not help me accomplish my objective.  In the end, I had to concede victory to the forces of evil who led my elven prince into slavery.

Dave running his fantasy Bear Yourselves Valiantly game
Dave running his fantasy Bear Yourselves Valiantly game
A close up of the heated action near the stream
A close up of the heated action near the stream

Duncan ran his WWII game with a mashup of LSNC WWII, A Union So Tested (ACW), and his own ideas.  He had four of six players, but the game went well with the attacking French eking out a victory.

I ran my Fate of Battle scenario, the Battle of the Mincio River.  I had four players and could have handled six.  All four players were largely running the game themselves by the end.  The French did not manage to cut the road to block the Austrians, but it was a hard-fought game.

Mincio River
Mincio River

This was a successful test of this scenario for a convention setting.

Our final event of the convention was a ten-player G.A.S.L.I.G.H.T. TM underwater game.  This game, because of its unique terrain and crazy contraptions attracted numerous passers-by.  We even won an award from the Cigar Box Battle blog for superior presentation.

Scout subs and soldiers of the scientific expedition
Scout subs and soldiers of the scientific expedition
The disabled Nautilus is an attractive target
The disabled Nautilus is an attractive target
The anti-Nemo soldiers of fortune advance to loot the Nautilus
The anti-Nemo soldiers of fortune advance to loot the Nautilus
Lots of activity. Note the giant octopus doing battle with the Atlantean walker.
Lots of activity. Note the giant octopus doing battle with the Atlantean walker.
John Ohlin, who I used to game with in Tallahassee many moons ago
John Ohlin, who I used to game with in Tallahassee many moons ago

After a quick breakfast Sunday morning we finished loading the van and headed home.  The ride back was faster than the ride down, because we only hit one traffic snarl along the way.

Despite low attendance numbers at NASHCON that caused most of our games to have light participation and one game not go at all (Dave’s WWII Look, Sarge game), we had a good time.  The rental of the van made the trip much more comfortable than last year, so when we arrived home we all were in much better shape.

The stats:  Six HAWKs, 23 hours on the road, 13 successfully-run games, 1 games that didn’t run, and lots of lead purchased.