Near the Tower of London, looking toward the Tower Bridge
I recently travelled to London to attend a conference for work. To save a large bag of cash on the flight, it was cheaper for us to go over a couple days early, so I had a chance to see a few fights the day before the conference started.
This is the "Shard." It is the tallest structure in the EU.
The first thing we did was go atop The Shard. This is the tallest structure in the EU. From atop the Shard you get some spectacular views of London. It was a bit hazy in the morning, but the weather cleared up nicely the rest of the week.
Looking up at the ShardA view of London from The Shard
I met my buddy Simon, and we then visited two places I hadn’t seen in my previous visits to London. The fist was the Cabinet War Rooms, where the British Government ran during WWII.
The "Map Room" within the Cabinet War Rooms
In the Cabinet War Rooms was also an extensive museum dedicated to Winston Churchill. It was really terrific, tracing his life from his earliest days as a soldier and war correspondent to his second term as Prime Minister and his death.
A mockup of a trench in the Imperial War Museum
I have been to London several times, but I had never gotten to the Imperial War Museum. I had been told it was primarily filled with WWI artifacts. Since that war doesn’t interest me much, this museum always took a back seat to other things I wanted to see, like the British Army Museum. The ground floor is dedicated to WWI, and the displays are excellent. The museum focuses on soldiers’ stories, not the battles and generals. I really enjoyed it. The other displays, WWII to the present were less impressive.
We passed this sculpture at one point. Since I have played a number of pirate games, I had to get a picture of this.
The Globe Theater in London
That evening we saw an excellent production of The Taming of the Shrew in the Globe Theater in London. This theater is an exact reproduction of the original Globe. It was really neat to see Shakespeare in the Globe in London.
The interior of The Globe
After three days at the conference, all of the folks I know headed home, but I stayed to attend the Partizan wargaming show in Newark on Trent, Nottinghamshire. That is the subject of my next post.
Here is an inspirational story. It’s been around for a couple of years, but someone just sent it to me again, so I thought I would post it here: The Krissoff Family
We’ve all see the “I support our troops” bumper stickers. I often wonder “how?” Putting a bumper sticker on your car does nothing to support our troops. A few years ago when we were the token poor people in an affluent neighborhood, I tried to get the scout troop to do shoe boxes for our troops and got NO response.
My son was home this weekend from school, and we filled the weekend with holiday activities. These included running in the Archbishop Spalding annual “turkey trot” fund raiser. This year all four of us walked or ran the course. My knees protested the last mile, but I completed the run.
The weather was perfect. Not too cold and not too hot.
We found a gingerbread village kit at Michael’s, which Sam assembled and decorated while Tom was busy with one of his friends. On Black Friday we decorated the house for Christmas, including setting up our Christmas tree. For the past ten years or so, we have been decorating on Black Friday. I think it is too early, because it is no longer novel or special when Christmas rolls around, but we did the same this year, because we wanted Tom to participate.
By the way, I set up a Christmas tree, not a holiday tree.
Last Saturday Tom (and the class of 2019) was formally accepted into the United States Corps of Cadets at West Point. This gave us a chance to spend a few hours with him before the academic year started. We had a VERY nice visit.
Tom in formation with G Co. waiting for the final two-mile march from the ski slope to West Point proper
Sunday and Monday, I participated as an “Old Grad” in the Beast Barracks march back. Cadet basic training, or Beast Barracks, ends at Camp Buckner on the West Point reservation and culminates with a 12.2 mile ruck sack road march over steep and rocky hills to the West Point main campus. This has been going on since time immemorial; although, Beast when i was a cadet ended at Lake Frederick, nearby, rather than Camp Buckner. What is relatively new is that the Academy encourages a bunch of Old Grads to participate each year to strengthen the new cadet’s connection to the “Long Gray Line.”
We all received a briefing from the Commandant and many of the cadets leaders on West Point summer training
For the “Old Grads,” the march back began with a briefing by the Commandant of Cadets and the senior summer cadet leadership about all of cadet summer training. I will admit that when I heard about Cadet Field Training (the summer between Plebe and Yearling years) being shortened, I thought that was a mistake. During the briefing, however, the told us that in fact those missing three weeks have been replaced with a different three week Cadet Leader Development Training, which is a three-week, Ranger school-like tactical leadership course between Cow and Firstie summers. I think it was a good trade, and cadet summer military training is strong.
The old grads setting up their cots in Barth Hall the night before the march back
We Old Grads slept in Barth Hall at Camp Buckner on cots. Lights out was 2200, and wake up was 0300.
Unveiling the motto for the West Point class of 2019
The night before the march back, the new cadets got to relax a bit with a talent show and the unveiling of their class motto. The talent show included a new cadet playing the bagpipes while another new cadet engaged in River Dance style dancing, a new cadet doing tricks on his yo-yo, several singers and musicians, and even a Best Barracks rap act. During the summer, the new cadets in the class of 2018 had nominated and voted on their class motto. At the end of the show, the final result was unveiled, and while it doesn’t rhyme, it is quite good: “So Freedom Will Reign.”
Tommy and his two Beast roommates
The march back begin Monday at 0230 for the new cadets and at 0300 for the old grads. We linked up at the parade ground at Camp Buckner with the companies to which we had been assigned. My son was in G Company, so I was able to march with his platoon. That was doubly good, because not only did I get to march with him, but since his company was determined to be the best at Beast Barracks, his platoon was first in the order of march. We reached the half way rest stop before the last company stepped off from the starting point.
Tommy marching alongside widow delCastillo
A relatively new tradition is to honor a recently fallen West Point graduate by naming the new cadet regiment as Task Force ___. The class of 2019 was Task Force del Castillo, named after a recent graduate killed in Afghanistan. Widow del Castillo marched with our platoon — several months pregnant — and Tommy had a chance to talk to her.
The chaplain brought all the new cadets ice pops
The ski slope marked the final rest point before the march onto post where the rest of the corps and a strong of spectators awaited our arrival. The chaplain’s office provided ice pops to the cadets and new cadets.
Two old guys and a young guy: from right to left Vinny O'Neil, Tommy, and me
Except for a little more illumination during the first — and hardest — three miles of the march, we couldn’t have asked for nicer weather. It was 63 degrees with moderate humidity. Despite arthritis and a recent knee surgery, my knees held up fine for the march.
Tom in formation with G Co. waiting for the final two-mile march from the ski slope to West Point properTom in formation with G Co. waiting for the final two-mile march from the ski slope to West Point properMarching from the ski slope to West Point
This was an excellent event. I am very glad I was able to participate in this with Tom. We had a chance to talk a little on the march and a little more during the rest at the ski slope to wait for all the companies to arrive before the final two miles to West Point. He is doing well and seems it really good spirits.
This morning we dropped off my son at West Point to begin Cadet Basic Training, a.k.a. “Beast Barracks.” This is a picture of him standing in line to get into Eisenhower Hall to begin his adventure. It was a bittersweet moment for all of us.
The drive from Mammoth Cave National Park to Charleston was very, very long, so Candy planned for to interesting stops along the way to break up the drive. The first was in Corbin, KY, where Colonel Sanders started his motor park. Eventually it became both Kentucky Fried Chicken and Days Inn.
Some of the displays in the Sanders Cafe
They had some very interesting displays to enjoy while we waited for our food. One idea that was interesting was that Colonel Sanders felt that women made the decision on whether to stay at which motor lodge, so he placed the ladies restroom so that you had to pass through a model of his motel room to get to it. In this way, he thought the women would see how neat and clean his rooms were and be amenable to staying at his motor lodge.
Outside the Sanders Cafe
Our next stop was at the Museum of Appalachia. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it was actually quite nice.
Museum of Appalachia
There were a large number of buildings from all over Appalachia that had been moved board by board and stone by stone from their original locations to the museum to form a sort of farming community. These included stores, barns, cabins, churches, and schools. There were also two larger buildings containing professionally presented displays of rural life and some famous people from Appalachia, including Sergeant York and Cordell Hull.
A replica of a small-town Appalachian general storeA family band entertains visitors to the gift shopA display about Sergeant York in the Appalachian Hall of Fame buildingAn original cabin that was moved to the museumSam in an Appalachian homestead
The people running the museum were very friendly. We bought a couple of AMAZING cookies that were made there. It was a worthwhile short stop to break up the long drive. We arrived in Charleston late that night and just had time to unpack the car and hit the sack. The next day we got up early for a two-hour walking tour of the historic part of the city.
Our tour guide
Our guide, 7th generation Charlstonian, provided a very interesting and informative walking tour of the historic part of the city.
A street of multi-million dollar houses overlooking the harbor
The city is quite picturesque. It had fallen into disrepair after the Civil War. In fact, the city was in such bad shape that there wasn’t even enough money to tear down the old buildings. In the end, this turned out to be good. Where in other historic cities, like Boston and New York much of the historical areas had been the target of urban renewal, in Charleston, the historical buildings hadn’t been torn down when money was finally found to rebuild.
Walking through CharlestonCandy poses in front of a "defended" gateThe St. Michael Anglican Church
This church was an Anglican (Church of England) before the American Revolution and was the official church in Charleston (and all the British colonies). When the Revolution ended, the Anglican churches became Episcopal churches. The Episcopal church reunited, North and South, after the Civil War, unlike many other churches. In the 1960’s this church left the Episcopal church and became Anglican again during the flap over the revision of the Book of Common Prayer. Lots of history there, but not worth describing in the posting. Many other churches have left Episcopal church in recent years for a variety of reasons, including heretical statements about the Bible by Episcopal bishops.
Tom and Sam in the old theater
The old theater in town is still active, hosting theatrical shows, musical shows, and a popular chamber music series each season. It has been beautifully restored.
Our hotel
After our walking tour we walked around some of the shopping areas and had lunch, followed by a couple of hours in the hotel pool. Our hotel also has an interesting story. It was demolished in 1968 and was rebuilt in the early 1970’s to look on the outside like the original. It was a VERY nice hotel within walking distance of everything we wanted to see in the historical area.
Sam enjoys the largest piece of pizza we have ever seen
That evening we walked around a few more shops and had pizza in a local establishment, Di Giovani. Trip Advisor said that the food was very good, but everything else “sucked.” They were right. The food was very good, but the service, ambiance, etc. were poor. It was one of those places where you felt they were doing you a favor to take your money.
The early ride out to Morris Island saw some sleepy Surdus
We got up early the next morning for a boat ride out to Morris Island in the bay. The tour guide and his two assistants were excellent. Morris Island, site of Ft. Wagner (as seen in the movie Glory) during the Civil War, is largely barren today. Sharks teeth, shells, and occasionally bricks from Ft. Sumpter wash ashore.
The Charleston waterfrontCandy and Sam looking for sea shells and shark's teeth
Sam and Tom found part of the tooth of a Maglodon, a prehistoric shark-like creature. The sharks in the area are small, so the teeth were tiny.
Tom and Sam on Morris Island
We elected to skip Ft. Sumpter. Others who have visited said it is disappointing. The top 2/3 of the fort from the Civil War were rubbled and are gone. Much of what is there is from the Spanish American War rather than the Civil War.
Sam plays the popular line dance, "Jump Left Y'all," on a conch shell
After returning from the boat ride we cleaned up and checked out of our hotel, had lunch, and headed up to North Carolina with a quick stop at South of the Border. After checking into the Ft. Bragg guest house we had dinner and played miniature golf in Fayetteville.
The course was quite nice and had 36 holes. On the final 18 holes Sam won, which she says is the first time she’s ever won at miniature golf.
The next morning we slept in a little and then visited the 82nd Airborne Division Museum. Located along Ardennes Street in the middle of the division area, while small, it is quite nice.
Some of the outside displays
Candy and the kids were pretty “museumed out” by this point, so we only stayed two hours.
An example of one of the displays, showing the 82nd in WWI
Every time I come to Ft. Bragg I remember how much I liked being in airborne units.
Upon leaving Ft. Bragg we headed home to unpack the car, unpack our bags, return the rental car, and hit the sack early. It was a long vacation, but a good one. We completed all 50 states just three days before Tom heads to college. This is our last family vacation while we’re all living together, which for me is a sad thing.
We left New Orleans and headed to Columbus, GA, to visit Candy’s mom. The kids always enjoy visiting there, because they relax there, play games, and generally enjoy some “down” time.
Tom and Sam showing Grandma something on her computer
The next day Candy and her mom had some errands to run, so I took Tom and Sam to a new attraction in downtown Columbus. We zip lined across the Chattahooche
e River to Alabama. Once in Alabama the kids negotiated an obstacle course. Though it turned out to be not too difficult, I chose to skip the obstacle courses because of my recent knee surgery, but I did do the zip lines with the kids.
Tom and Sam on the ropes courseTom leaping from obstacle to obstacleSam taking a more deliberate approach
Because our group for the zip line and obstacle course was small, we finished before Candy and her Mom completed their errands. I took Tom and Sam to the north side of Columbus to play a round of indoor miniature golf. For an indoor course it was surprisingly good and would have, in fact, been a good outdoor course. The holes were long and challenging, and the course was in good repair.
Miniature golf
The next day we headed to Huntsville, AL, to see the space center.
You can see this Saturn V rocket from a long distance away
We arrived at the space center a little after noon with the intent of staying until it closed at five. There was a lot to see. Candy and the kids were ready to leave before I was, and there are a number of displays I would have liked to spend more time visiting.
There were a number of really nice outside displays
We have been to the space centers in Houston, Cape Canaveral, and now Huntsville. I find them all very enjoyable and a stark reminder of what this country can do when it sets its mind to something.
<Warning: political rant> I fear those days are behind us. We cannot have a reasoned discourse in this country about things that matter, and instead we focus on trivial social issues and the politics of character assassination of anyone who wants to tackle the important issues. Unlike Kennedy’s vision of going to the moon not because it’s easy, but because it’s hard, our “representatives” from both sides of the aisle focus on trivial issues like gay marriage, politically correct language, and symbolism over real action rather than important issues like fixing our economy, getting rid of a tax system that punishes success and fosters class warfare, and curtailing social programs that keep people in poverty. Where are the leaders who will create a coherent energy strategy for the nation? Where are the leaders willing to really take on immigration reform (like controlling the borders and expelling those here illegally) rather than merely masking amnesty policies with leftist rhetoric? When will the Supreme Court do its job of protecting us from an increasingly overreaching and unconstitutional federal government and stopping activist judges from legislating from the bench? When when will we get serious about stopping the decline of our educational systems compared to the rest of the industrial world? Where are the leaders who will attack the causes of the destruction of the middle class in this country instead of symbolic, and useless, measures?</rant off>
You cannot help but be both awed an inspired by the men and women who took us to the moon in such a short time, built two space stations, and are preparing to colonize Mars. They are doing what is hard to create new science, promote the pioneer spirit that built our nation, and generally advance America and mankind.
Sam learns what she weighs on Earth, Mars, and the MoonSam suited up for EVA
I learned quite a bit about the preparations for sending people to Mars. I have been a proponent of this since reading A Case for Mars by Max Zubrin. While NASA’s approach doesn’t follow Zubrin’s model, bit is nonetheless exciting and will involve setting up permanent habitats on the moon. NASA says that they already have thousands of volunteers for a one-way mission to colonize Mars but not return — to instead stay there. Now THAT is the kind of pioneer spirit that built America!
Climbing a rock wall on "Mars"
I don’t know what the climbing wall had to do with space, but hey, it was a climbing wall, so it HAD to be climbed.
One of many displays about telescopesA Saturn V on its side
In addition to all the static displays, there were a couple of really exciting IMAX movies. We saw the one on exploration of space that talked about the shuttle missions, the international space station, and culminated with information about a future expedition to Mars.
There were three organizations that were created or enhanced as a result of the Russian launch of Sputnik: NSA (to prevent strategic surprise), DARPA (to prevent technical surprise), and NASA (to win the space race). I have worked at the first two. Someday, I would like to work at NASA if the right opportunity arose. I watched Neil Armstrong step on the moon when I was in first grade and have been a sucker for space stuff every since. How amazing it would be to have even a small role in getting men to Mars!
A lunar module on display
I really enjoyed our brief visit and would like to return to take in more of the displays in a leisurely manner.
Our next stop was the Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky. Mammoth cave is the longest cave system in the world, with the known tunnels measuring some 400 miles and more being explored and mapped each year. We took a four hour tour which only covered about four of those 400 miles.
A 3D model of the Mammoth Cave tunnel systemThis map shows the extent of the Mammoth Cave tunnel system
The National Park covers more than 52 thousand acres.
A rock formation near the area known as Frozen Niagara
Our Ranger was quite informative, stopping often to allow our long line of visitors to catch up and ask questions.
Part of our tour groupA rest stop during the tunnel walk for the Ranger to hold a Q&A session
There were two rest stops with latrines during the four hour tour. These “modern” facilities were cut into the rock cave in the 1950s, with sewage pumped to the surface rather than flowing into the three underground rivers that flow in the fifth level of tunnels.
Modern restrooms cut into the cave wallsTraveling "Cleaveland Avenue" (this is spelled properly)
Being a mostly dry cave system formed when the shallow sea bed receded some bazillion years ago, Mammoth Cave is a largely dry system. Sandstone and other rock above, protects most of Mammoth Cave from having water seep into the Limestone, eroding it and also creating dramatic rock formations (stalagmites, etc.) that we saw in Carlsbad Caverns. There were a few areas where the protecting cap of other rocks had eroded away and there were some of those interesting formations.
By about three in the afternoon we were ready to do something above ground. We drove into Cave City and played some miniature golf, went down an Alpine slide, and rode in Go-Karts until a typhoon struck the area and drove us indoors. After dinner at a local restaurant (we typically seek local places, rather than chains, while on vacation), we returned to our hotel within the National Park.
While the kids played some Frisbee, Candy and I took a short walk to Sunset Point overlook the Kentucky countryside.
Sunset Point
We finished our time at Mammoth Cave National Park with a game in our hotel room. The game was sort of Russian Roulette with jellybeans in which some of the jellybeans were good flavors but others were things like baby wipes, vomit, and skunk smell. The game ended when Sam got a vomit jellybean and spent five minutes with her head in the sink.
The hotel was built in the 1970s, but has a more nostalgic feel to it. Many pictures on the walls show tours of Mammoth Cave in the 1950’s with the typical attire of the time. For someone (like me) who thinks the pinnacle of women’s fashions was reached in the late 1940s and early 1950s, the pictures on the walls were entertaining.
Our quaint hotel room in Mammoth Cave National Park
Tom and I began the morning of day 6 with a short run through Petit Jean state park. When we returned, Sam was preparing breakfast in our cabin — pancakes and spam.
This was a leisurely morning, since this was just a travel day — from Arkansas to Vicksburg, MS.
Yummy!
After breakfast, we packed the car and headed to Mississippi.
Sammy conducting a detailed eyelid inspection
We arrived in Vicksburg after the National Park had closed, and we found the one movie theater in town to watch Jurassic World, then had pizza in our hotel room.
Waking Tom in Vicksburg
We awoke bright and early and headed to the park.
Entrance arch
Though my experience with licensed guides has been mixed, we rented a guide for a two-hour tour of the Vicksburg National Military Park. He was really quite good and had a lot of interesting anecdotes to share. The tour lasted about two hours, which was an hour more than Tom or Sam could handle. The entrance arch was built with money left over from the “hands over the wall” reconciliation reunion event in the 1940s. Apparently four days into the seven day event, booze got the better of the attendees. They began beating on each other with canes and bashing each other with their wheel chairs. After the second battle of Vicksburg ended, everyone was sent home early, and the leftover money was used to pay for the arch.
Before embarking on our tour, however, we first watched a cannon firing demonstration. The park ranger did a very nice job of describing cannon firing and walking the spectators through the process.
A cannon shot that set off car alarms in the nearby parking lot
I was surprised at the number of monuments at Vicksburg. There seemed to be more than at Shiloh, and the number rivaled Gettysburg — at least on a monument-to-square-mile basis.
In front of the Illinois monument
The pride and joy of the park is the USS Cairo.
The Cairo was probably the first ship in the world sunk by an electronically detonated mine. This mine was likely a glass jar of explosives and a blasting cap. The ship went down in 12 minutes with no loss of life. It was found in the 1940s by a park ranger but wasn’t raised until the 1970s. After many years of restoration, it is on display. You can read about these early ironclad ships, but seeing one in person you really get an appreciation for the size.
A view of the USS Cairo from the port bow
The smoke and noise must have been terrible during a battle due to the close quarters.
A view of the USS Cairo from the starboard bow
I could have stayed a little longer, but by this time I was facing a mutiny, so we got on the road for New Orleans. We arrived in time to check into our hotel and then walk along the river and the street in front of our hotel.
A view of our room
Candy found a really nice — and crazy inexpensive — hotel in the French Quarter, close to the river, and near the center of all the shopping, called the French Market Inn. It appears to have been built over time by purchasing nearby buildings and combining them into a single hotel. The stairways go in all kinds of crazy directions. Rooms like this one were obviously part of an exterior wall at one time. The room was quite nice, and it was good to be within walking distance of just about everything we wanted to see.
In the inner courtyard of our hotel
As the hotel acquired nearby buildings to cobble into a single hotel, they created this nice interior courtyard with a small wading pool. It was a quiet escape from the hustle and bustle of the tourist trade outside.
Another view of the courtyard
So, here is a good place for a quick assessment of New Orleans: dirty and raunchy. It combines the worst of beachfront t-shirt shops, “homeless” people, pickpockets, and stench, with good food and zydeco music. All the tourist information warns visitors to travel in large groups and guard your valuables because of the gangs of thugs and pickpockets who roam the streets. While we didn’t see much of that, it just wasn’t my cup of tea. We were in the heavily patrolled tourist area, but you could easily wander a block in the wrong direction and spend your vacation dead. I’m glad we have visited in New Orleans, and I will probably return once to finish seeing the National WWII Museum, but otherwise, this city has little to interest me.
A statue of Joan of Arc, the Maid of Orleans
We were close to Jackson park, dedicated to Andrew Jackson, statues of Jean Lafitte, and this statue of Joan of Arc. The French heritage of New Orleans is everywhere. We wandered around, looking in stores, and sampling different types of hot sauces. We did not really sample the pubs, bars, and restaurants that featured live entertainment, but perhaps we will do that if we return.
A cross section of a muffelata
Late our first evening, we began to get hungry, so we split a muffelata. These are enormous sandwiches filled with different meats, provolone cheese, and olive salad. Purportedly invented at the Central Market along Rue Decatur (where our hotel is located) by Sicilian immigrants, muffelatas are quite good. We had a chance to compare this one from a small street-side restaurant with the “original” from Central Market. Tom and my consensus was that we preferred the original.
The walkway along the Mississippi River
A few years back, we visited the headwaters of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca state park in Minnesota. On this trip we came very close to where the Mississippi empties into the Gulf of Mexico.
A stud wrestling an alligator
The next morning we braved New Orleans traffic to get to Jean Lafitte Swamp Tours outside of town.
A view of another airboat as we left the dock
The four of us and another couple boarded one of these airboats and headed into the bayou in search of gators and Rougarou, the famous Louisiana swamp creature.
Our guide driving the airboat
Our guide and his family have been involved in rescuing gator eggs, growing gators in captivity, and releasing them in the wild for many years. It was obvious that these guys cared about what they were doing, beyond the tourist trade.
Our guide feeding chicken gizzards to a gator
After releasing a mature alligator (about four feet long), they try to ensure the gators have enough food to get them through their first winter as they learn to fend for themselves in the wild.
Someone trying to hitch a ride
I expected to see gators and other wildlife from a distance. I didn’t expect to get this close.
Our guide and a gator
This is NOT a petting zoo. These are wild gators in search of food.
Sam, the alligator hunter
When the travel brochure said we would get a chance to handle a gator, Sam wanted to know if it would be one with its mouth held shut or a “free range” gator. This is one of the gators these guys are raising for eventual release into the wild. We all got to hold him. It is surprising how soft their belly skin is.
A view across the bayou
After our airboat tour, we returned to the hotel to clean up and then walked to the National WWII Museum. This was originally the National D-Day Museum but is in the process of a major expansion. In four hours we probably only saw 30% of the collection. This is worth returning to New Orleans to see again!
Sam and one of the dummy paratroopers dropped on D-Day
The museum was quite large and getting larger. I don’t know for sure, but it felt larger than the Smithsonian Museum of American History. There were a number of interactive displays and some artifacts I’ve never seen in a museum before.
A display of the naval flotilla for D-Day
We walked back through town, traveling along Bourbon Street as long as we could stand it. To paraphrase Obi Wan Kenobi, it was a wretched hive of scum and villainy. I expected antique stores, small honky tonks with live music, and higher-end shops. Not so. While there is some of that on parallel streets, Bourbon Street was strip clubs, cheap shops with vulgar t-shirts, “homeless” people trying to get your cash, and smells that rival the trash compactor in Star Wars. All the trash is just thrown on the streets during the day and is picked up at night. This is not Disney.
A view of Canal StreetA set of French style buildings
Along the way, we passed picturesque scenes like this one that hint at the grandeur of old New Orleans.
Tom sampling a beignet
We also stopped in Cafe du Monde for a beignet.
It was a good visit, and we got to see all the things I wanted to see — a swamp tour, a little of the French Quarter, and the WWII Museum. Other than wanting to spend more time in the WWII Museum, I think two nights were plenty. Tomorrow we will head to Columbus, GA, to visit Candy’s mom for two nights.
We began Day 4 with a visit to the Overholtzer Mansion in Oklahoma City. It was built in the early 1800s and remained in the same family until it was turned into a museum in the 1950s. Interestingly, through three generations, almost nothing in the house had been changed (other than the kitchen) since it was built.
The old television is one of the few updates to the house.
Our next stop was the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum in Oklahoma City. We had been here once before when Tom was young and “before Sammy.”
The Duke!
There were some very nice displays of western themed art as well as excellent static displays on Indian life, ranching, the Army in the old west, and the Indian Wars.
Not much has changed!The recreation of a typical cowtown street
One are that was neat was a recreation of a typical western town street. Each of the buildings could be entered and had nice staging with props. There were not plaques or explanatory signs. At first I thought this was a bit funny, but I guess those signs would have broken the ambiance of the street.
Give me a sarsaparilla in a dirty glass, pardner!
Camerawoman Candy had had too much Redeye when she took this one
There was also a large area dedicated to Western movies.
The displays about the life of the cavalry and infantry on the plains were quite good. This is one of the few places I’ve seen any real mention of the infantry in the Indian wars. Most of the focus is usually on the cavalry.
Home, home on the range!Smile, when you say that, pilgrim!
After this museum we headed down to the stockyards district and had huge hunks of cow before heading out of town toward Arkansas.
We began Day 5 at Fort Smith in Arkansas. The fort’s history goes back to 1803 when two companies of the US rifle Regiment established the fort to try to quell unrest between Osage and Cherokee Indians. We didn’t expect to spend much time at Fort Smith, but there was enough to see that we stayed two hours.
A view of the Ft. Smith Commissary from across the parade ground
By the time of the Indian Wars, Fort Smith was the major supply depot for the various forts in the Indian Territory (what is now Oklahoma). It was also the Federal Courthouse for a huge region of untamed territory. As such, Judge Parker’s court, assisted by hundreds of deputy marshals who scoured the Indian Territory for outlaws, dispensed sure and swift justice.
A reconstruction of the Ft. Smith jail in the visitor's center
The visitor’s center has a nice movie about the history of the fort and a number of very interesting static displays. The recreation of the overcrowded jail facilities was quite interesting.
A view inside the commissary
There was also an interesting display of the commissary, from which supplies were distributed to Indian reservations, Indians traveling the Trail of Tears, and the various US Army forts within the Indian Territory.
The entrance to Petit Jean State Park, Arkansas
We then travelled to Petit Jean state park, Arkansas. Though a state park, Petit Jean has the feel of a National Park, including a grand lodge, hiking trails, boating, fishing, etc. We stayed in a “rustic cabin” that might be nicer than our house.
The lodge
After checking into our cabin, we hiked to Cedar Falls. It was only two miles, but there was quite a bit of elevation change, and the humidity was terrific.
Waiting out a rain storm on the back porch of our cabinCutthroat dominoes!A view of Cedar Falls from aboveSam and Tom at Cedar Falls
After our hike, we had dinner in the lodge restaurant. The food was excellent and very reasonably priced. We bought a bottle of muscadine grape juice and toasted to the fact that when this trip is completed we will have been to all fifty states as a family.
Toasting all 50 states with muscadine grape juice
After dinner we spent a couple hours at the pool, staying until almost dark. Then we returned to our cabin to relax for the evening.